She twirls away. He yanks her back, then clasps her ever more tightly. A doomed relationship. But the crowd loves it. The wailing violin reaches its crescendo. Cue eruption of applause. The lights snap out. Pure tango.
Tango is the essence of the vibrant city of Buenos Aires and its complex inhabitants ('portenos', after the port). And here at the Tango Rojo, in the trendy Philippe Starck interior-designed La Faena hotel (unicorn heads on the walls, that sort of thing), at the end of a long, half-lit, crimson corridor divided by black leather banquettes, is one of the most talked-about and expensive places to watch it (£155 per person, including dinner). Read more . . .




